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AGTA mandates synthetic label for lab-grown gems

By Josslyn Pemberton · · 4 min read
AGTA mandates synthetic label for lab-grown gems - lab-grown gem labeling
AGTA mandates synthetic label for lab-grown gems

The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has taken a significant step toward greater transparency by revising its “Code of Ethics,” a foundational document that all members must sign each year, and by publishing the 17th edition of its full “Gemstone Information Manual.” These initiatives reflect the association’s ongoing commitment to clear communication and ethical standards across the gemstone market.

Effective under the policy adopted by the board of directors in June 2026, every AGTA member is now required to label any manufactured gemstone that mirrors the chemical composition, crystal structure, and optical characteristics of a natural stone with the term “synthetic.” By mandating this precise vocabulary, the association eliminates ambiguity that can arise when sellers rely on more generic descriptors. The previous allowance for the phrase “lab‑grown” to stand alone has been removed, ensuring that consumers receive an unambiguous indication of a stone’s origin.

Retail jewelers, while adhering to the new rule, retain flexibility in how they present these materials to shoppers. They may pair “synthetic” or “man‑made” with the specific gemstone name, such as “synthetic sapphire” or “man‑made ruby,” thereby preserving the ability to highlight the stone’s qualities without compromising honesty. This approach balances marketing needs with the imperative for truthful disclosure.

AGTA President Bruce Bridges emphasized that consistent language is a cornerstone of consumer confidence. He noted that the updated standard provides members with a straightforward framework for describing synthetic gems while reinforcing the organization’s broader dedication to natural‑colored gemstones. The clarity afforded by the new terminology helps buyers make informed decisions and reduces the risk of misrepresentation.

In addition to the ethical overhaul, the association has continued its stance against the sale of lab‑grown diamonds and gemstones on its trade‑show floors, a prohibition that has been in place since 2024. By keeping these items off the exhibition space, AGTA shows its role as a gatekeeper for quality and authenticity within the professional community, further distinguishing its events from venues where synthetic products might be displayed without proper labeling.

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The freshly released 17th edition of the “Gemstone Information Manual” introduces three new symbols to the “Specific Forms of Enhancement” section, expanding the toolkit that members use to communicate treatment processes. The abbreviation “ASBL” now denotes assembled stones, covering configurations such as doublets and triplets, while “HR” signals heating treatments that leave a residue, and “W” identifies gemstones that have undergone waxing. These symbols streamline documentation and aid in the rapid identification of enhancement methods during appraisal and sales transactions.

Updates to the “Gemstone Information Chart” further refine the manual’s utility. The chart now lists irradiation and heat as common, stable treatments for pink morganite, providing a clear reference for professionals handling this popular stone. In the “Special Advice” column, the manual adds a caution against ultrasonic cleaning for certain delicate gemstones, specifically naming jade and moonstone as vulnerable to damage from such processes. This guidance equips jewelers and collectors with practical care instructions that protect the integrity of valuable pieces.

Recognition was given to the Industry Rules Committee for its diligent work in keeping the manual current and relevant. Bridges praised the committee’s contributions, noting that the continuous updates enable AGTA members to apply uniform disclosure and care standards throughout the supply chain. The association’s longstanding influence on industry norms ensures that the manual serves not only its members but also the broader international gemstone community.

John W. Ford Sr., AGTA’s chief executive officer, echoed this sentiment, describing the manual as a trusted resource that delivers practical, up‑to‑date guidance. He highlighted the publication’s role in supporting responsible disclosure and ethical business practices, reinforcing AGTA’s position as a leader in setting standards that shape the global marketplace for gemstones.

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