Gem Finds

Economist explains how inequality reshapes luxury jewelry market

By Laken Fairchild · · 4 min read
Edahn Golan, Tenoris co-founder and National Jeweler contributor.
Edahn Golan, Tenoris co-founder and National Jeweler contributor.

The U.S. jewelry industry is dividing into two distinct markets. Over the last six years, higher material costs, geopolitical conflicts, and changing buyer preferences have created an uneven economic split—one where two customer segments move in opposite directions. This shift is forcing retailers, manufacturers, and distributors to rethink stock levels, pricing structures, and store designs.

Gold and silver prices have risen consistently, energy costs fluctuate unpredictably, and trade barriers keep changing. Additional costs from shipping delays and financing further complicate operations. These pressures have increased production expenses, compelling retailers to adjust prices or face declining sales. Meanwhile, consumer behavior has evolved. The market is not simply contracting or expanding—it is splitting apart.

One segment is reducing overall spending, particularly on jewelry priced below $1,500. Although these buyers may increase their average purchase value per item, the decline in total units sold outweighs any gains. The sole exception is lab-created diamond jewelry, which continues expanding, though primarily in basic, lower-cost items like stud earrings. The other segment behaves differently: their spending on premium items, such as bridal sets, diamond studs, and tennis bracelets, often featuring natural diamonds, has risen. Their total expenditure is up, but not because prices have climbed. Instead, they are purchasing more frequently.

This division goes beyond pricing alone. It reflects how consumers engage with jewelry. The middle tier of the market is shrinking. Retailers attempting to cater to both groups often fail to satisfy either effectively. Each segment now demands a tailored approach.

For budget-conscious buyers, retailers must emphasize high-turnover lab-grown diamonds, aggressive pricing, and a lean inventory system. In contrast, luxury-focused stores should highlight exclusivity, displaying fewer items with more space between them, and strengthen narratives about craftsmanship. Inventory decisions become especially critical: Can a retailer justify stocking natural diamonds for custom orders when demand remains uncertain?

Manufacturers split on lab-grown vs. luxury

The split also affects manufacturers. Some will focus on producing affordable, everyday jewelry, while others will concentrate on high-end designs, stressing innovation and distinctiveness. The era of balancing both segments, particularly in the $1,000 to $2,500 range, is ending. Major U.S. retailers have already committed to one strategy or the other, investing heavily in either lab-grown or natural diamonds.

Signet Jewelers remains an outlier as the largest jewelry retailer in North America by revenue and store count, operating across multiple segments through separate brand divisions. Following it on the $100 Million Supersellers list are two mass-market leaders, Amazon and Walmart, and two luxury powerhouses, Richemont and LVMH. However, even Signet’s approach may face challenges. U.S. specialty jewelers performed better year-over-year than multi-item retailers. That is not surprising. Specialty jewelers, especially independents, are deeply rooted in their communities. They know their products well and speak about them with confidence and passion.

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Why specialty jewelers outperform big chains

Large chains, by contrast, are designed to move substantial volumes of product while tightly controlling costs. Turnover among sales staff is often high, meaning that while large chains offer consumers a bargain, they do not always build long-term relationships. The U.S. jewelry retail market remains fragmented compared with most other industries for one reason, because this dynamic works. It serves customers well and often generates strong returns for successful operators.

The key takeaway from all of this is that the split in the market is likely to continue for the foreseeable future. Adjusting to changing consumer demand will require businesses to adapt accordingly.

In today’s market, success increasingly depends on choosing a clear position: volume or luxury, lab-grown or natural, price leadership or product differentiation. The middle of the market is becoming harder to defend, and the largest U.S. retailers have already made their choice.

Supply chain disruptions have accelerated the trend. Manufacturers in China and India, two key production hubs, face rising wages and stricter environmental regulations. These changes push up costs, making mid-range jewelry, once a stable profit center, less viable. Retailers now face a choice: either compete on price with lab-grown options or position themselves as purveyors of rare, high-value natural stones.

Digital shifts and the future of buying

Digital adoption is reshaping purchasing behavior. Physical stores still dominate in the luxury segment, where tactile experiences and expert consultations remain essential.

For manufacturers, the transition requires significant investment. Those producing lab-grown diamonds must scale operations to meet rising demand, while traditional cutters must refine techniques to justify premium pricing. The gap between the two pathways is widening, and the industry’s future depends on which side businesses choose to support.

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