A two-volume study on Armenian goldsmiths under Ottoman rule has been released in English, presenting the first full record of a craft that influenced centuries of jewelry-making in the empire.
The book, Jewelry and Armenian Goldsmiths under the Ottomans, was originally published in Turkish in 2022 and sold out within 18 months. Its English translation now brings the research to a wider readership, addressing what author Arsen Yarman calls a neglected area in historical scholarship.
The hidden engine of Ottoman jewelry
Yarman documents the work of over 2,000 Armenian goldsmiths from the 16th to the 20th century, showing how they became the driving force behind much of the empire’s jewelry. The books recreate an era where designs were drawn by hand, diamonds were cut with foot-powered tools, and gemstones were shaped using manual drills.
Both volumes combine Ottoman and Armenian documents—many published for the first time—with visual material spanning four centuries. The collection features jewelry, medals, liturgical objects, silverwork, watches, arms, and original design sketches. Yarman also examines the personal histories of goldsmith families, some of whom continue the craft today, and their detailed ties to the Ottoman palace.
For generations, these artisans developed methods that defined elegance and precision. Though often uncredited in records, their contributions now have a dedicated record. Yarman notes that the reaction to his work has motivated him to expand his research to Armenian goldsmiths globally, though he admits the effort would be far larger than his current project.
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Jewelry as history, not just adornment
The books appear alongside two other recent releases on jewelry craftsmanship, each offering a distinct perspective. Elizabeth Gage: A Life in Jewellery traces the six-decade career of the Anglo-American designer, whose work merges historical influences with bold sculptural forms. Gage, trained as a goldsmith in London, treats gold as a medium for expression rather than limitation, using enamel and gemstones to evoke feeling beyond tradition.
Her designs, made for everyday wear, often spark conversations. The book follows her studio’s growth, from a childhood marked by illness and art to her flagship boutique in London’s Albemarle Street, which she designed herself.
For Yarman, the story of Armenian goldsmiths is more than a historical detail—it demonstrates how craftsmanship endures when passed through generations. The books don’t just catalog techniques; they reveal how jewelry holds culture, family, and history.
The English edition of Jewelry and Armenian Goldsmiths under the Ottomans is now available, with enough pages to challenge even the most dedicated summer reader.
