Bvlgari’s latest designs feature a striking combination of steel and gold, bringing a fresh energy to the house’s classic creations. The move is not a rejection of the opulence and colourful extravagance that the house is known for, but a confirmation that design is king.
Steel and Gold: A New Combination
The pairing of steel and gold is not new to Bvlgari, as the house used these materials in a bold way in the 1970s, mixing the utilitarian aspect of steel with the glamour of gold. The house also mixed gold with ceramic and porcelain and later made aluminium desirable in its Bvlgari Aluminium watch.
Steel has never been an easy material for a jeweller to work with, as it is notoriously complex to shape and requires technical mastery and creative conviction to make it look at ease alongside gold. That Bvlgari has done so repeatedly across five decades, and chosen to do so again now, says something important about the house.
The B.zero1 Ring
The B.zero1 ring by Bvlgari translates its signature spiral into Gold & Steel, with steel bands framed by engraved yellow gold edges referencing the architecture of Rome. Two new versions, a two-band and a four-band ring, frame steel spirals between yellow gold outer edges, the architectural rhythm of the design evoking the ancient columns of Rome.
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The profile is slim and streamlined, designed for everyday wear and for layering, and the stackable logic of the B.zero1 universe means that the Gold & Steel rings integrate effortlessly with existing pieces. The B.zero1 ring, born in 1999 as an act of deliberate rule-breaking, is the natural home for this material encounter.
Tubogas and Serpenti
Bvlgari reinterprets its Tubogas signature through Gold & Steel, where flexible coils meet diamond-set links in a study of contrast where precision is softened by light. The Tubogas necklace and bracelet reach further back into the archive, echoing a bold design from the 1970s in which seamless, flexible coils of steel are punctuated by yellow gold studs.
The Serpenti Tubogas Studs Capsule, a limited edition of four watches, carries the vision into watchmaking, wrapping the legendary Serpenti silhouette in a Tubogas bracelet enriched by the Stud motif, with diamond dials and mother-of-pearl completing the picture. The Serpenti emerges in Gold & Steel at Bvlgari, its coiling silhouette heightened by the tension between cool metal and warm gold accents.
At Bvlgari, shaping Gold & Steel is a technical exercise in control—steel’s resistance balanced against gold’s malleability to achieve the seamless Tubogas form. Even at the workbench, Bvlgari treats Gold & Steel with the same rigour as high jewellery, refining every dial and surface before assembly.
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High Jewellery Creations
Three high jewellery necklaces complete the picture, bringing the Gold & Steel language into the rarefied territory of one-of-a-kind creation. That Bvlgari chose to honour this material combination at the level of high jewellery is the clearest possible signal of its seriousness. Steel, in these pieces, is not a concession to accessibility or a commercial calculation, but a creative choice made at the highest level of the craft.
As Bvlgari continues to push the boundaries of design and materials, it’s clear that the house is committed to creating pieces that are both beautiful and meaningful. With the Gold & Steel collection, Bvlgari has once again proven its ability to innovate and surprise, while remaining true to its heritage and values.
They are dedicated to their craft.
