Fine Sets

Luxury jewellery expert shares style secrets

By Laken Fairchild · · 3 min read
Luxury jewellery expert shares style secrets - raw diamond jewellery
Luxury jewellery expert shares style secrets

Copenhagen jeweler Maya Bjørnsten has spent 17 years developing a brand around one idea: raw diamonds, left exactly as they were mined.

RoughDiamonds.dk creates unique pieces using only unpolished stones—no cutting, no shaping. Each jewel highlights the diamond’s natural form, whether gnarled, angular, or smooth. No two pieces are alike, and imperfections become the central feature.

The philosophy behind the raw approach grew from discomfort with traditional jewelry. “It felt too rigid and uniform,” Bjørnsten said. Holding her first rough diamond changed everything. “I was struck by its quiet power and ancient energy. It didn’t need human intervention to be magnificent.”

That belief shapes every step. Bjørnsten carefully selects every single diamond herself, often traveling to Antwerp to handpick parcels before they enter the global supply chain. She works only with RJC-approved suppliers and uses recycled gold, ensuring full traceability for every piece.

A small team of diamond-setters and goldsmiths in Copenhagen designs each mount by hand. They sculpt recycled gold to fit the stone’s unique contours. No standard template exists—only the challenge of working with the diamond’s natural anatomy.

Rough diamonds appear in a range of shapes and colors, from white and green to rare yellows. Inclusions—internal flaws often hidden in polished stones—become part of the appeal. Bjørnsten has found diamonds with inclusions resembling foam, a diamond within a diamond, and one shaped like a Christmas tree. “I’m not seeking standard calibration,” she said. “I want distinct personalities.”

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This focus on individuality has connected with buyers. For her clients, that uniqueness matters most. “Jewellery has returned to its ancient roots—acting as an amulet, a talisman, a deeply personal symbol, or a marker of an important life milestone,” Bjørnsten said.

The brand’s style balances chaos and precision. Rough diamonds, formed over billions of years, are paired with clean, sophisticated goldsmithing. “The magic lies in contrast,” Bjørnsten said. “We pair the wild, organic chaos of a billion-year-old stone with refined gold. That tension creates something modern and understated.”

Each piece is made in the company’s Copenhagen atelier, located in a quiet courtyard. Clients can visit the boutique to browse or commission custom designs. Some leave with ready-to-wear pieces; others wait for a stone that resonates.

For Bjørnsten, the work is personal. “We occupy a truly unique niche,” she said. “I’ve poured my entire life’s passion—and my pension—into this. Our clients don’t want a badge of wealth. They want a piece of eternity.”

A 2.19-carat ring, set with white and green diamonds, sits in white gold. Nearby, a 3.27-carat necklace displays a raw stone on a double chain of black rhodium-treated gold. Even cufflinks, featuring 1.67-carat rough diamonds, attract men who prefer the natural look.

The jewellery editor’s role has evolved alongside these shifts, reflecting how storytelling now defines modern luxury collections.

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