Italian jeweler Pomellato has quietly redefined high jewellery with a bold, wearable approach that sets it apart from the traditional grandeur of Place Vendôme. Known for its Milanese roots and accessible prêt-à-porter designs since 1967, the house made its debut in haute joaillerie in 2020 with La Gioia, its sixth collection under that name. Unlike competitors who rely on themed narratives or opulent storytelling, Pomellato treats its one-off pieces as an extension of its signature style—confident, tactile, and built for movement.
The brand’s latest collection, Stile Libero, showcases this philosophy in full. Unveiled in Paris at its rue Faubourg Ste Honoré showroom, the pieces blend technical mastery with effortless glamour. A necklace like the Silent Lagoon—crafted in gold and green anodised titanium—features 1,804 gemstones, including 478 Paraiba tourmalines, 278 emeralds, and 848 diamonds, yet its design prioritizes ease over spectacle.
The Dressage cameo, inspired by the brand’s name (which means “dappled” like a horse), and the Arabesque necklace, with 4,123 diamonds in minimal rose gold mounts, prove the house’s ability to balance extravagance with practicality. Pomellato’s high jewellery avoids the rigid formality of competitors like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, instead favoring designs that feel alive.
The Sakura Bloom necklace, set with 41 multicolored tourmalines and 2,692 diamonds, and the Rainbow Supreme—which includes 68 tourmalines in hues from green to purple, demonstrate a fearless use of color and texture. Even the Intreccio ring, with 675 sapphires and 83 rubies, leans into asymmetry and playfulness, a stark contrast to the geometric precision often seen in haute joaillerie. What makes Pomellato’s entry into this elite category striking is its refusal to conform.
While other brands treat high jewellery as a separate, almost theatrical area, the house integrates its most precious pieces into its existing aesthetic. The result is work that feels both exclusive and immediate, jewels that could adorn a red carpet or a casual evening out. This duality is central to the brand’s identity, where craftsmanship meets joy without sacrificing sophistication. The collection’s technical achievements are equally notable.
The Mandala Chromia necklace, for instance, uses 99 multicolor sapphires, 528 brown diamonds, and 231 white diamonds in a lace-like setting that challenges traditional gem-setting techniques. Meanwhile, the Eye of Tanzanite necklace combines a cabochon marquise-cut tanzanite with 2 trillion-cut diamonds and 1,320 sapphires, pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in high jewellery. Yet even these detailed designs retain a sense of lightness, as if the wearer might reach up to adjust them mid-conversation.
Pomellato’s approach reflects a broader shift in luxury jewellery, where wearability and emotional resonance often outweigh pure display. The brand’s high jewellery isn’t just about rarity; it’s about redefining what preciousness can look like. In an industry where spectacle has long been the standard, Pomellato’s Stile Libero collection proves that true innovation lies in staying true to one’s roots while daring to do things differently.
The collection’s pieces, each a study in material contrast and bold color, show the house’s commitment to its Milanese heritage. From the Attache necklace’s 683 brown diamonds to the Rainbow Supreme’s lively tourmalines, every design balances technical precision with an undeniable sense of fun. It’s a reminder that even in the most exclusive category of jewellery, the most enduring creations are those that feel alive.
