Summer reading for jewellery enthusiasts often drifts between history and biography, offering a chance to slow down and examine the craft, the people, and the relationships behind the jewels. Three new books fit this bill perfectly. One is a monumental academic study of Ottoman-era Armenian goldsmiths, another is a biography of the sculptural Anglo-American designer Elizabeth Gage, and the third explores the creative partnerships fueling contemporary brands. These works reveal that jewellery is rarely made in isolation; it is the result of centuries of tradition, personal ambition, and often, family loyalty.
For anyone serious about the history of goldsmithing, Arsen Yarman’s Jewelry and Armenian Goldsmiths under the Ottomans is a must-read. It is a two-volume set that traces the work of Armenian goldsmiths from the 16th to the 20th century. The publication fills a significant gap in historical records, as these artisans were, for a long time, the creative engine of Ottoman jewellery. The book includes primary source documents and visual material that were not previously published. Readers will see original jewellery drawings, orders and medals, jewellers’ seals, liturgical objects, and even watches and arms. The scope is so broad that it covers over 2,000 jewellers across several centuries.
Related: Luxury Jewels on Display in New Magazine
While the academic rigor is high, Yarman does not ignore the human element. He explores the families who practiced the craft for generations, describing what he calls their “bittersweet relationship with the palace.” Some of these families still practice the trade today. The book’s release in English was delayed by high demand, as the original Turkish edition sold out within eighteen months. It is a hefty volume, likely too big to pack in luggage, but perfect for a coffee table reference over the holidays.
Elizabeth Gage: A sculptor of gold
Elizabeth Gage is a name synonymous with bold, sculptural jewellery. Her new book, Elizabeth Gage: A Life in Jewellery, chronicles a career spanning more than six decades. Born in Britain but with a spirit that felt distinctly American, Gage studied at Chelsea School of Art and trained as a goldsmith at Sir John Cass College. Her technical mastery provided the foundation for a lifetime of artistic freedom.
Gage’s work is instantly recognizable. It does not seek approval; it commands attention through its sculptural forms and rich historical references. The book captures the spirit of pieces that are made to be worn every day and age gracefully. Collectors often speak of how these objects spark conversation, treating them almost like friends. During the 1970s, her trunk shows in the United States were cultural gatherings rather than commercial events. She even welcomed collectors like Jackie Onassis into her home.
Related: Jewellery editor shares style secrets
Her design philosophy treats gold as a medium of expression rather than restraint. Enamel is used with painterly confidence, and gemstones are selected for character and color rather than convention. The publication shows a career defined by independence and confidence. It is a volume for anyone who values jewellery as an art form with a story to tell.
The people behind the partnerships
Jewellery is often thought of as a solitary pursuit, but Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos & Generation Gems by Beth Bernstein and Sonia Esther Soltani argues otherwise. The book explores the human relationships, creative exchanges, and shared visions behind some of the most compelling contemporary brands. It highlights how success is frequently rooted in family ties, generational continuity, and creative partnerships.
The authors interview industry figures to reveal the alchemy of these relationships. Tomer Michaelin of Artëmer describes the creative force he and his wife pull from one another. Jessica Busiashvili of OX reflects on the shared vision she has with her brother Michael. Nadine Aysoy recalls playing with stones at her grandfather’s De Beers sightholder offices in Antwerp before eventually founding her own brand at fifty. Demetra Lalaounis takes readers back to the workshop at the foot of the Acropolis where she and her three sisters hammered away as children.
Related: Luxury jewellery expert shares style insights
The portrait that emerges is of an industry shaped by personal bonds. It is a look behind the jewels to see the arguments, the compromises, and the shared ambitions. For anyone interested in the business side of design, this is a rewarding and revealing read.
It is easy to look at a finished piece of gold and enamel and assume the designer worked in a vacuum. These three books remind us that jewellery is deeply rooted in history, personal narrative, and social connection. As the industry moves toward digital design and mass production, these physical volumes offer a grounding look at how things were—and in some cases, still are—made.
