Gold Trends

Luxury Jewellery Trends for the Season Ahead

By Rue Whitfield · · 3 min read
Luxury Jewellery Trends for the Season Ahead - luxury jewellery
Luxury Jewellery Trends for the Season Ahead

The art of Daniel Brush is on display in Paris from June 8th to October 4th, featuring over 75 jewels, paintings, and sculptures. The exhibition, curated by Brush’s wife Olivia and jewellery historian Vivienne Becker, explores the artist’s career-long questions about the nature of jewellery and its place in the art world.

Challenging Boundaries

Brush’s work refuses to respect the boundaries between disciplines, asking questions like “Does a jewel have to be worn?” and “Can it exist as a handheld object?” These questions are the animating ideas behind a body of work that challenges the hierarchy of fine art and jewellery.

A self-taught goldsmith, Brush began his career as a painter and sculptor before retreating from public life in 1978 to teach himself the ancient Etruscan technique of granulation. He mastered this skill to a degree that rivalled the ancients, creating an extraordinary range of work, including delicate granulated gold domes and jewel-encrusted objects of fantasy.

The Leitmotifs of Line and Light

The exhibition is structured around the leitmotifs of line and light, which thread through Brush’s work. For Brush, light meant illumination in its most profound sense, while line related to breath, poetry, and the creative process that drove his making.

Brush’s pieces sit in the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and have been exhibited by the Smithsonian, the Museum of Arts and Design, and Christie’s and Phillips. His work has done more than anyone to challenge the hierarchy of fine art and jewellery, insisting that something small enough to hold in the palm of your hand could possess the scale of history.

In an era when the line between fine art and jewellery remains fiercely contested, Brush’s work offers a unique perspective on the relationship between the two.

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For those who care about the place of jewellery in the wider conversation about art, this exhibition is essential viewing. The show is free, with entry upon registration, and is open from Tuesday to Sunday, with late opening on Thursdays until 8.30pm.

The exhibition is hosted by L’École, School of Jewelry Arts, which offers courses in gemmology, craftsmanship, and jewellery history. The school’s role as a place of transmission is supported by Van Cleef & Arpels.

A Legacy of Innovation

Brush’s legacy is one of innovation and experimentation, and his work continues to inspire artists and jewellery makers today. His use of unconventional materials and techniques, such as incised steel and coloured diamonds, has pushed the boundaries of what is possible in jewellery design.

As a self-taught goldsmith, Brush’s career shows the power of dedication and hard work. His pieces are a reflection of his relentless process of making, and his commitment to exploring the possibilities of jewellery as an art form.

The exhibition is a must-see for anyone interested in the art of jewellery and its place in the wider conversation about art. With its unique perspective on the relationship between fine art and jewellery, it offers a fascinating insight into the work of one of the most innovative and influential jewellery makers of our time.

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